為什麼會想做瑞士酒？ - Célia Wine Travel

我最近IG在做瑞士酒的內容，先是從如何認識瑞士酒開始，也因此不斷思索自己為什麼會想做瑞士酒？

會想做瑞士葡萄酒，並不是因為它有多有名，事實正相反。在這個全球葡萄酒產業不斷朝向市場規模化、國際評分與資訊快速運轉的時代，瑞士葡萄酒的 alpine wine觸動了我的心…

瑞士每年生產的葡萄酒，超過90％在瑞士境內被飲畢，這是一個非常特殊的市場結構。

我在瑞士體驗過許多極高品質的瑞士葡萄酒，瑞士酒有著其獨特純粹，酒的質地往往透亮且優雅，我在瓦萊州(Valais)體驗過最好最新鮮的Fendant(夏斯拉)白酒搭配起士鍋 ; 在沃州(Vaud)日內瓦湖畔享用Dézaley AOC Grand Cru的夏多內白酒 ; 在蘇黎世品嚐陳年蘇黎世黑皮諾紅酒，搭配絕佳的小牛肉和瑞士甜菜 ; 也曾在瑞士朋友家大啖在提契諾產區（Ticino）梅洛紅葡萄酒，搭配當地產的臘肉與培根義大利麵。

瑞士葡萄酒的品質極佳，但要出口實在太過困難，先不論瑞士整體價格較高與稅金等因素，我在訪問瑞士酒莊時，發現有許多酒莊從一開始的生產設定目標就是足以達到內需產量即可。

這個內需包含酒莊周邊的鄰居、餐廳、酒吧，親朋好友，當供應沒有過度超過供給，不僅價格結構穩定，不必被龐大需要周轉的金流擠壓著拼命出口，在這樣一個國際情勢不穩定的年代，瑞士酒的「慢」反為酒農締造了一個相對穩定的信心，能夠連年種植釀造好的葡萄酒，給當地人享用。

在國際葡萄酒市場，主流品種是一套共通語言，透過認識主流品種，能夠快速以此資訊推斷一瓶酒的風味，但這一切似乎都不再變得有趣。我期待的是打開一瓶酒，能夠讓我閉上眼如旅行當地，甚至喚醒一段記憶，我想要的是跟家人朋友坐下來，開瓶有趣的酒討論喝起來的感覺、想搭配的食物。

瑞士仍大量保留並使用在地葡萄品種，例如 Fendant（Chasselas）、Petite Arvine、Cornalin、Humagne Rouge 等，這些葡萄在瑞士境外幾乎難以尋覓，再加上氣候變遷的年代，瑞士葡萄酒不只保留了乾淨清脆的酸度質地，酒精濃度仍然是迷人的11-12%。品嚐瑞士酒時，這些探索讓我感到驚喜，即便陌生品種不容易被快速理解，但我所期待的，是這樣足以呈現瑞士風土的樣貌，這些「不主流的高山品種」，反而顯得格外迷人，持續回應土地、氣候與地方飲食的需求。

瑞士葡萄酒走的是一條很利基的路，然而正是在這樣的時代背景下，需要更加相信自己正在做的事，不追求快速規模擴張，而是在個凡事被要求被定義的世界裡，選擇慢下來並將這樣的理念和體驗分享給更多人。

💡 想看更多瑞士葡萄酒資訊嗎？歡迎閱讀：

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More than 90% of the wine produced annually in Switzerland is consumed domestically. This represents a very unique market structure.

I have experienced many Swiss wines of exceptionally high quality. Swiss wines possess a distinctive sense of purity, the textures are often clear, precise, and elegant. In Valais, I enjoyed the finest and freshest Fendant (Chasselas) paired with fondue; along the shores of Lake Geneva in Vaud, I savored a delicious Dézaley AOC Grand Cru Chardonnay; in Zurich, I tasted Zurich Pinot Noir alongside outstanding veal and Swiss chard; and at a Swiss friend’s home, I once indulged in Merlot from the Ticino region, paired with locally produced dried beef and a bacon pasta.

Swiss wines are of outstanding quality, yet exporting them is extremely difficult. Beyond Switzerland’s generally high price levels and taxes, I found during visits to Swiss wineries that many estates set their production goals from the outset to meet domestic demand only.

This domestic demand includes neighboring communities around the winery, local restaurants, bars, family, and friends. When supply does not significantly exceed demand, price structures remain stable, and producers are not forced by heavy cash-flow pressure to chase exports. In today’s era of global instability, this “slowness” of Swiss wine has instead given winegrowers a sense of relative stability and confidence, allowing them to consistently cultivate and produce good wine year after year for local consumption.

In the international wine market, mainstream grape varieties function as a common language. By understanding these varieties, one can quickly infer the likely flavor profile of a wine. Yet this no longer feels particularly exciting to me. What I hope for when opening a bottle is the ability to close my eyes and feel travelling to the place itself, or even to have a memory awakened. I want to sit down with family and friends, open an interesting bottle, and talk about how it tastes and what foods we might pair it with.

Switzerland still preserves and widely uses indigenous grape varieties such as Fendant (Chasselas), Petite Arvine, Cornalin, and Humagne Rouge, grapes that are rarely found outside the country. Moreover, in an era of climate change, Swiss wines continue to maintain clean, vibrant acidity while keeping alcohol levels at a charming 11–12%.

When tasting Swiss wines, these explorations consistently surprise me. Although unfamiliar varieties may not be immediately understood, what I seek is this expression of Swiss terroir. These “non-mainstream alpine varieties” are especially captivating, continually responding to the land, the climate, and local culinary traditions.

Swiss wine follows a highly niche path. Yet it is precisely in this era that one must have greater faith in what one is doing, choosing not to pursue rapid expansion, but instead slowing down in a world where everything is constantly demanded to be defined, and sharing this philosophy and experience with people.

💡想看更多關於葡萄酒、旅遊和美食故事嗎？馬上追蹤 Facebook 吧！